Installation Guidelines

1. All Regency Railings designs require a specific baluster space for staircases and straight railings. The most common baluster space required is 30″ for the staircase and 32″ for straight railings, however, some designs are different and some designs do change with the degree of inclination. Always check your specific application in the line drawings to determine the correct baluster space before you begin.

2.For installation on a closed stringer, construct the knee wall in accordance with the trim specifications. In most installations the top cap should be a maximum of 4″ vertical from the front edge of step or 4″ above landing, however, 3 3/4″ is preferred to allow for any variance that might occur. Always check your specific application in the line drawings to determine the correct maximum height.

3. The knee wall must be secure! This wall will be the base for the balustrade system.

4. Always begin the layout from the bottom of the stairs and work toward the top.

5. The first piece of the system will be either a plain vertical bar inserted into the stringer at 1/8″ or 1/4″ from the plumb edge of the knee wall (for installations like Tuscany and Regency) or the vertical bar will be attached to the decorative panel (for installations like Michelle and Tiffany).

6. Determine the center measurement by plumbing up center marks equal to the width of the individual panels or multiple piece panel design (this measurement can be found in the line drawings for your particular application) on the outside of the skirt board. Measure the distance up the rake to determine the center measurement.

7. Lay out your center marks on the top of the knee wall. If a newel post is required at a landing, lay it out at this time also.

8. Let any partial panel that might be needed come into the newel.

9. Layout of a landing or any level railing should always be from the center out toward the edges. This allows for equal cuts on both ends should the landing or level railing not require full panels. If the run is longer than 10′ (or other local code) and a newel is required for strength, lay out the panels to center on that newel. A plain 1 1/2″ x 1 1/2″ square metal tube can be used as the newel or use alternative per specifications. Layout of a landing or any level railing should always be from the center out toward the edges. This allows for equal cuts on both ends should the landing or level railing not require full panels. If the run is longer than 10′ (or other local code) and a newel is required for strength, lay out the panels to center on that newel. A plain 1 1/2″ x 1 1/2″ square metal tube can be used as the newel or use alternative per specifications.

10. Occasionally, on longer landings, you may be required to add strength to the newel. One way the additional strength can be attained is by cutting a piece of metal to resemble an airplane tail with a small base. The base will attach to the knee wall and the tail is welded to the metal newel.

11. Now is the time to cut and lay out the wooden handrail as normal, and lay it on top of the knee wall.

12. Transfer your marks from the knee wall to the handrail. Make sure the center marks are as accurate as possible, because in several designs all panels will weld together later during installation and must pull together properly.

13. Accuracy of the above step can be checked with one panel and one piece of the vertical bar by temporarily clamping the bar and panel together and then plumbing it on the center marks.

14. After transferring your marks onto the handrail, drill the correct size holes into the knee wall and into the handrail. Most designs will require that you chisel the holes square in both the knee wall and handrail. Check for fit. Using a 6″ long piece of the vertical bar, place it into all holes. While the holes in the knee wall should remain extremely tight, the holes in the hand rail should allow the bar to slide in easily. You should also check the angle with a pitch block.

15. Begin preparing the decorative ironwork at this time.

Remember: Always wear proper safety equipment when cutting or welding

Before you begin the installation of the decorative iron panels, the following tools should be available: Small sledge hammer – C clamp – strap clamps – vice grips – gloves – square mortise – skill or similar saw (with blade for cutting metal) – welder (wire welder will lessen cleanup) – grinder and liquid nail.

1.Please check your order to ensure you have all the parts needed to complete the installation.

2. Now is the time to begin cutting the metal verticals attached to each decorative iron panel. Always allow for a minimum of 1 1/2″ of the vertical bar to be inserted into the knee wall and 1″ to be inserted into the wooden handrail. This should be just a straight cut.

3. Grind all cut ends to allow for a smoother entry into the holes.

4.Arrange the decorative iron panels (per layout chosen by client) on the floor or other work area to ensure the correct design. Remember, start at the bottom of the staircase with the vertical and work toward the top of the staircase.

Now you are ready to begin installation!

5. Apply a small amount of liquid nail into each hole before inserting the vertical or decorative panel. Be certain to check each panel for any slight alignment or adjustments at this time. Continue this same procedure until you have installed all full panels. Any partial panel that might be needed will be dealt with later.

IMPORTANT: Never weld the decorative iron panels together before the handrail is fitted!!!

6. After all decorative iron panels are in place, begin fitting the wooden handrail on top of the decorative ironwork.

7. If you are installing Tuscany, Tiffany or Michelle, once proper fit of the handrail is achieved, (pulling rail with strap clamps to attain fit might be needed to plumb to newel or wall), proceed by beginning your welding at all points where the panels touch. This does not necessarily have to be a strength weld. It is needed mostly to tie the panels together for that true custom look.

8. When reaching the top of the staircase or ending into a wall and a partial panel was needed, now is the time to cut and install these partial panels. After cutting and welding any partial panel, please be certain to ensure that the partial panel will still pass the 4″ code. Some additional pieces may need to be taken from your discarded cuts. This is especially true with the Tiffany design.

9. After all welds are completed, be sure to grind each weld smooth and prime paint all welds to prevent rusting.

10. Congratulations!! You are now finished installing a Regency Railings prefabricated ornamental iron balustrade system.

Instructions and tips for installation on an open stringer

1. The baluster space requirements for installation on an open stringer are exactly the same as the closed stringer. Again, the most common baluster space is 30″ for staircases and 32″ for level railings. However, you must check your specific application in the line drawings because some designs will vary when changing the degree of inclination.

2. As with any custom fabrication, a top and bottom channel or flat metal frame must be constructed and the Regency Railings’ panels will be inserted and welded between this framework. Regency Railings products are not designed to be inserted directly into the stair treads.

3.Please follow the layout procedure as described in the closed stringer application. The layout is exactly the same.

Important

4. The base of installation (channel or flat metal) on an open stringer usually starts approximately 3″ lower than that of a closed stringer application. Therefore, you may be required to add an additional height (above or below) your original framework to pass the minimum handrail height requirements in your area. This is especially true if you are using a typical iron or brass handrail. If you will allow for a second framework channel with a height of 3 1/2″ during the construction of this additional space, it can be filled with a coordinating scrollwork designed to enhance the Regency Railings open stringer application or it can be left empty and still pass the 4″ sphere code.